History of the Antimacassar: Exploring the Origins and Uses of This Victorian Crochet Necessity

When I first delved into the fascinating and beautiful world of Victorian and Edwardian crochet patterns, I soon discovered that there were many items that ladies back in the day crocheted that were entirely unfamiliar to me. It was a new world to me, an exciting world, and I couldn’t wait to explore it! During my exploration, I discovered things like muffatees, manchettes, polkas, spencer jackets, gaiters, fascinators, chemisettes, and yes, antimacassars!

As I just uploaded my very first antimacassar pattern to VCE, I thought I would share what I learned about these amazing pieces of fiber art – what they are, a bit about their history, and how they can be used today.

What Is an Antimacassar?

Introduced in England in the early 1800s, the antimacassar at this time (also called a “tidy” by some) was a piece of crocheted, knitted, tatted or embroidered cloth work that was used to cover the backs or arms of chairs and sofas to protect the fabric from dirt, grease and hair product, most specifically during the Victorian period,

the hair oil widely used by men at that time called macassar oil. This oil would often stain the fabric of chairs and sofas when men sat in them, so housewives began making these coverings to protect their precious furnishings and called them “antimacassars”, after the name of the oil. Women also used various hair products, but the name came from this specific oil used by the men.

These antimacassars became indispensable necessities in many Victorian and Edwardian homes because of their function. However, they were not only practical; antimacassars were also very decorative and helped make parlors and sitting rooms beautiful. Some were simple and basic, but many others were elaborate works of art with intricate designs that were considered a vital part of any refined home. In some cases, doilies were used as antimacassars if they were large enough.

Partial Decline and Modern Revival

By the early 20^th century, upholstery materials that were easier to clean began to be introduced, and the use of macassar oil declined, which decreased the need for antimacassars. They therefore fell out of use in the home somewhat, although their use didn’t die out entirely. Forms of the antimacassar in various settings were also seen outside the home, and continue to be seen today; on headrests in airplanes and trains, on theater chairs, and in clinics and hospitals on examination tables, for example. All of which are used for practical purposes (hygiene, protecting fabric).

However, as I wrote above, even in the home, the use of the antimacassar didn’t entirely die out. When I was a young girl in the 1970s (and when many men still used Brylcreem on their hair), I can clearly remember still seeing them in homes, used for both decorative and protective purposes. Even today, when we have chairs and sofas that can more easily be cleaned than was the case in the past, the more intricate designs are increasingly valued for their decorative appeal and appreciated for their beauty, particularly in retro or vintage home décor settings.

If you are considering trying your hand at making your own vintage antimacassar, take a look at this new pattern that has just been added to VCE!

[Images © Vintage Crochet Emporium]