The Manchette: Definition and a Very Brief History

Manchettes, or undersleeves (sometimes also called false sleeves or engageantes), are detachable sleeves worn beneath a main garment that were used at least as early as the 1600s according to the information I could find at the time of writing this post. They could be made of muslin, linen (plain or embroidered), wool or cotton, but were also knitted and crocheted. There were thicker, warmer, more robust versions for the fall and winter, while women used light and delicate versions for the spring and summer. During the Victorian era, they were popular not only because they allowed the wearer to quickly change the look of a dress, but also because they protected the outer sleeves of expensive dresses from wear and dirt since they could be so easily removed and laundered. At this time, they were often worn under the large, bell-shaped sleeves of the day called pagoda sleeves.

Fashions of 1861 from Godey's Lady's Book.

But like antimacassars, manchettes were not only practical; they were also decorative. They could be quite elaborate in aristocratic circles, and became a way for the wearer to indicate their social status. As wealthy people commissioned them to be made from luxurious fabrics or delicate lace, sometimes even adorned with jewels or other embellishments, the more intricate and ornate the manchette, the higher the wearer’s rank appeared.

Thanks to the Industrial Revolution and mass production, manchettes became more affordable and available to more people. It was also during this time that they began to be used in work settings by factory workers, clerks and the like to protect their clothing from dirt, wear, ink, etc.

The 20^th century saw a decline in the use of the manchette due to changing fashion trends, but recent years have seen somewhat of a revival, being valued by designers, vintage fashion enthusiasts, historical fair-goers and some museums who have employees who wear historical costumes on tours, for example.

So, manchettes have had a long history, and like many other vintage crochet items, they have been both functional and decorative.